If Paris is a moveable feast, it’s becoming a more affordable one, thanks to the economic slowdown.From multistarred restaurants to neighborhood brasseries, eateries are struggling to lure customers as the recession cuts local and tourist spending and businesses slash corporate accounts. I bypassed the traditional bistros to test a few posh spots that are seeking to tempt euro-pinchers with dining deals.Helene Darroze, who sports two stars from Michelin, figures the 25 euro ($37) prix-fixe lunch at her eponymous restaurant is just the ticket for gourmet bargain-seekers. It is, especially for those with Kate Moss-like appetites.The light, tapas-style offering is made up of seven petite dishes all gleaned fresh from the market that day. When I visited, they included a morsel of foie gras dipped in pain d’epices, an egg en cocotte with a parmesan mousse and slices of hanger steak braised with soy sauce.All were savory, well presented and original. The dainty beef offering was particularly tasty and a couple more slivers would have been welcome.We were a bit disappointed with the ambience. The windowless Left Bank eatery seemed a bit sad and weathered, maybe because we dined on a sunny day.Watch out for extras that can add heft to the check. A glass of Veuve Clicquot goes for the same price as the whole meal, while 5.50 euros for an over-extracted espresso is just wrong, no matter how many stripes you have on your sleeve. I reckon that’s how Madame Darroze makes up her margins.4 Rue d’Assas, Paris 75006 Tel. +33-1-4222-0011 or click on http://www.helenedarroze.com. Rating: **.Mori Venice BarGiving Darroze a run for the money is Mori Venice Bar. The high-end Italian restaurant next to the Paris bourse targets stockbrokers and businessmen with a “CAC-40” menu, using the name of the benchmark stock index and offering a varying price of 34 euros to 41 euros, according to its performance.A good day for French stocks meant I paid at the high end on my visit. We were impressed with our starters, which included silky-smooth mozzarella slices paired with ripe-tomato-topped bruschetta. The cheese tasted fresh from the buffalo farm, while my guests raved about their tuna carpaccio.Diners are mostly offered only pasta choices for the main dish. The linguini with langoustines was a hit for my friends while the fusilli with pesto and basil was a tad bland for my taste. All were cooked al dente. The portions were too much for any of us to finish. A correctly chilled Falanghina Fuedi di San Gregorio white, while not cheap at 51 euros, went swimmingly with the meal, which finished with a light panettone-esque bread-cake drenched in apricots and a caramel sauce.2 Rue du 4 Septembre, Paris 75002. Tel. +33-1-4455-5155 or click on http://www.mori-venicebar.com. Rating: **.Maison BlancheLooking for a similar special menu for dinner, I came across Maison Blanche, atop the Theatre des Champs-Elysees, just off the Avenue Montaigne fashion boulevard.The eatery, which features a four-meter (13-foot) floor-to- ceiling glass window that looks out over the Seine, offers a 69 euro “New Deal” menu. Named after U.S. President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s plan to resuscitate the economy during the Great Depression, it’s about half the price of the regular prix-fixe menu. It’s worth it, albeit not a penny more.We had one of the best tables, right in front of the window looking out over the river and Napoleon’s resting place, Les Invalides. Maison Blanche is enormous, spread out over three levels with tables generously spaced. The decor is minimalist to a fault and drab given the fantastic setting.The offerings here were more French classical with a slightly exotic touch. I started with Provencal asparagus accompanied by tiny fried frog legs, tamarind and a hollandaise sauce for dipping. The vegetable was steamed just right while the croaker was lost in the fried casing. My guests were smitten with the compact rectangle of duck foie gras that was served with an unusual bitter-chocolate topping.The main dish choices were John Dory or roasted lamb. I went with the fish and found the rich dollop of risotto underneath a fitting complement to the St. Pierre, which was lightly soaking in a lemon vinaigrette. My friends enjoyed the Aveyron lamb, tender and rare and paired with preserved onions and grilled potatoes. Taking us to the finish was “The Roosevelt,” a humdinger of a chocolate cookie loaded with caramel cream and stacked next to an orb of vanilla ice cream.Like Helene Darroze, Maison Blanche doesn’t hold back in marking up the Champagne. Again, at 25 euros a pop -- and we’re not talking Dom Perignon -- you feel a little bamboozled when the check arrives since the price isn’t listed on the menu.These deals may fit the bill for those seeking a stylish dining experience in Paris without a credit-card implosion.Just skip the bubbly.15 Avenue Montaigne, Paris 75008 Tel. +33-1-4723-5599 or go to http://www.maison-blanche.fr.The Bloomberg QuestionsCost? From 25 euros to 69 euros without drinks.Sound level? Hushed as all the restaurants were half empty.Date Place? Only Helene Darroze if your date is impressed with two-star restaurants.Inside tip? Request a window-side table at Maison Blanche.Special feature? The view from Maison Blanche.Will I be back? Yes to Darroze; probably to Mori; probably not to Maison Blanche unless they get a decor revamp.What the Stars Mean**** Incomparable food, service, ambience.*** First-class of its kind.** Good, reliable.* Fair.0 (no stars) Poor.(Stephen Taylor writes for Bloomberg News. The opinions expressed are his own.)
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